Food & Wine

 

 

Recently, I was asked if I'd be interested in writing a column about food and Iowa and if I had an angle in mind. I didn't even need a minute to think about it – local food producers and the entire food infrastructure. I am not a hardcore locovore (someone who tries to only eat food produced within 100 miles of their home); however, I do try to be conscientious with my food purchases. I want to know that the people raising, handling, and preparing my food have thought about why and how they do things and about the impact their choices have on other people and the environment.

 

That doesn't mean I want or need all of my food to be organic, but it does mean that I like buying from nearby producers whenever possible. This gives me the chance to run over to the farm where the goats are raised, or the cows are milked, or the berries are grown to talk to the people who make the decisions about what those animals are fed or what gets put on the food I eat. Being a militant locovore during the winter in Iowa would be depressing, but during the summer when there are many small producers supplying co-ops, grocery stores, and farmer’s markets it is easy to explore the local options. One of those options is Northern Prairie Chevre.

 

For Kathy Larson, Wendy Mickle, and Connie Lawrance what started as a couple of goats have become two companies — Nubian Bubbies and Northern Prairie Chevre. Nubian Bubbies owns the goat herd and Northern Prairie Chevre buys the milk and turns it into a variety of cheeses. I discovered their delicious products shopping at Wheatsfield Coop in Ames. I fell in love with their flavored chevres, manchego, parmesan, and queso blanco. Try a cheese tasting where every option is a well-known favorite, except that this time the animal supplying the milk was a goat. You’ll be surprised at how the flavors and textures you’re used to are just a little tweaked and a little more intense.

 

During the summer, I try to support their small business directly by buying most of my cheese from their 4th Street stand during the Des Moines Farmer’s Market. It was at the Farmer’s Market that I discovered their best, most addictive product – “squeaky cheese” –, which is actually goat milk-based cheese curds. Imagine the most squeaky, flavorful cheese curds you can (maybe from the Amana Colonies) and then realize that these are ten times as good. For many years they only made them every other week, but thankfully this year they’ve been selling them every week. However, they still run out some weeks, so if you’re going to snag some I suggest going early.

 

If you stop by their stand you might also be offered the chance to sample a new flavored chevre combination that they are experimenting with. Some weeks Kathy will offer the chance to try several similar, but different versions of a new flavor so that she can ask for a bit of feedback. Don’t miss out, even if the combination seems strange – these women know what they’re doing. My favorite might be the honey almond or the garlic and basil. They also do an ash torte that shouldn’t be missed, and if cheese isn’t your thing they make a chocolate fudge and fudge sauce that will elevate any sundae.

 

While you might be able to find their products at a nearby grocery store or farmer’s market, I suggest a trip out to visit their store, Miss Tillie's, and the farm, especially if you have children. In the late spring and early summer you’ll find plenty of kids (baby goats) around the farm and they are fun to watch as they bound around like little balls of energy.  Not too far outside of Woodward, the store has regular hours during the week and one Sunday a month (from spring until winter) they have an open house in conjunction with several other nearby farms. During these events you’ll often find food, live entertainment, and activities for both children and adults. 

 

If you're in central Iowa, Northern Prairie Chevre is worth a taste and a visit.  

________________